Volcan Tajumulco, Guatemala

Saturday February 6. We hit the road without a real breakfast, just bananas and some Yoplait drinkable yogurt. We reached the border in an hour. On the Mexican side a swarm of adjudantes (“come here, come here, this way, you need copias de sus documentos, change money? Change money?”) We parked the car and Mike stayed with the car while I took the documents. First the guy took me to a photo copy business, but I said no, I have copies, I only want to talk to an immigration official. Back at the van, I told the swarm, “No queremos ajudar! Deje nos in paz!” and finally appealed to a security guard for assistance sending them away. Then the guy showed me where to go to process our exit papers. There was no line; the immigration official was pleasant and easy (we both smiled to hear the child in the waiting area whining to his mom and we talked about grandkids), he took my entry card, stamped my passport and we were done. Mike needed to do his in person so I fetched him. At first we couldn’t find his entry card and were told it would cost a large sum of money to process a new one, but we finally found it and got his passport stamped. The adjudante protested that we would need help with the paperwork for the car on the Guatemalan side, but we brushed him off and were waved through the checkpoint. On the Guatemalan side a new adjudante (Mexican) ushered us into a secure hotel parking lot and took us to his office to prepare the car paperwork. I asked why are we in a private office and not doing this directly with the officials and he said you can, but I can get you through in half an hour, while dealing directly you won’t get through till 5:00pm. We acquiesced, remembering how helpful the customs broker was getting our boat across the Canadian/US border. There was a small problem that we had a photocopy of our car title and not the original, but the guy went to the officials and took care of it. It ended up costing us US$140. Next time I think I’ll do it myself. All toll, it took nearly two hours to cross the border.

   The drive up to San Marcos was dramatic: climbing, climbing, climbing in elevation on a steep winding road through verdant forest, and populated with short, Guatemalan people in colorful dress, many jammed into equally colorful busses. We passed dozens of evangelical churches of various stripes, and only one Catholic church in the whole three-hour drive. There were virtually no road signs at all, but with only one main highway and maps.me at the ready we had no navigational trouble. We didn’t have a place to stay in San Marcos, so drove around till we found a district with hotels, inquired at a few, until we stumbled on one that was nicely kept, with secure parking, for a modest price—less than $20 per night—and they gave us the penthouse view room for the same price. We would have welcomed hotter water in the shower, but it was fine for the purpose. The staff directed us to a nearby restaurant where we enjoyed fish and the traditional black beans, cheese and plantains.

Sunday February 7. Today we climbed Volcan Tajumulco (13,845 ft / 4220 m) in the western highlands of Guatemala. The driving conditions were once again stressful for both of us; we agreed that the next time we come to Central America it won’t be by car. Mike was feeling extra cranky because he has a cold and is tired of coughing, blowing his nose, and feeling tired. Of course he doesn’t believe in resting when he has a cold.

   We found the trailhead with little difficulty and began the trek up, first on a steep cobbled road,

The trailhead

which turned to dirt, then social (unbuilt) trails up the mountainside. The soil is mostly pumice and ash, and very loose underfoot. The lower mountain is grass and brush, the middle third is a beautiful pine forest, and the top third is alpine. It was a beautiful day. The sun came out and the blustery cold wind moderated to a pleasant breeze. The vistas of the houses, roads and fields climbing the steep mountainsides in the valleys across and below were amazing. We were flabbergasted to pass 60 or 70 hikers with backpacks coming down from their overnight on the

A view of the highlands

mountain. We didn’t see anyone else going up, other than a couple local woodcutters. There were two summits, so Mike left the main trail to go straight cross country for the taller one. I trailed along at my own slow pace. It took us three hours from the road to the summit. When he got to the top he looked across and realized that from this new vantage point the other summit was clearly taller. So we descended to the pass and trudged up the real Volcan Tajumulco. Two summits in four hours. Fortunately he doesn’t get angry over navigational errors

On the summit

when hiking.

  Descending in under two hours, we were tired when we reached the car. And glad for a slow drive back. And glad for a hot shower and a rest at our lovely but cheap hotel. We went out for a late dinner of pizza and beer.