Grand Canyon River Trip, October 27 –> November 17, 2021

 

Janet scored a lottery permit for a 21-day rafting trip down the Colorado River, 226 miles from Lee’s Ferry, through the Grand Canyon, taking out at Diamond Creek. There were 16 of us: Janet and seven friends, and eight experienced rafters that Sandi and Phil recruited through networking. (Actually, one spot was divided between Skip and Melina, with a change over at Phantom Ranch.) Our gear, food and transportation were provided by PRO outfitters.

Wednesday Oct 27. We left Flagstaff at noon with 11 in the van, 3 in the truck, and 2 meeting us at Lee’s Ferry. The gear was packed full in a 10x20’ moving van, perhaps 3000 pounds’ worth. Probably one-fifth of that was beer, wine, spirits and seltzer. Crazy. 

It was a 2.5-hour drive to the put-in at Lee’s Ferry. Marble Canyon is spectacular! Red rock with horizontal layers and undulating erosion contortions. We pumped up and rigged the rafts and loaded up. Four hours of chaos. Then we rowed 800’ downriver to the campsite and unloaded half the stuff. Just at dark, we went in the van back to the highway for dinner at the Marble Canyon Lodge. The waitress was very commandeering and funny.

In the bag by 10pm. Mike and I slept out on the tarp. It must have gotten down to freezing, as there was a light dusting of frost here and there in the morning.

Thursday Oct 28. (Camp 2: Six Mile). The sun didn’t cross the horizon until after breakfast. Breakfast of yogurt, bagels toasted on the griddle, muffins, juice, coffee and tea. Some people clearly know what they’re doing. Packing up the boats took all morning, plus a 45-minute briefing by Sean, the PRO guy, then a 45-minute briefing by Ranger Scott. He was trying to be funny and entertaining, but he had 35 safety and conservation rules to go over with us. 

We are on a raft with Steve: he’s a total pro. Calm, and lithe like Mike. Then we had to unpack some stuff for lunch. Then repack. Late start on the river. Pretty chaotic. Stopped at 6-mile camp a few miles

short of the original plan because we are still in shake-down mode, and had a elaborate dinner to prep and wanted to make camp in the daylight. The camp had open, sandy pockets in a thicket of scrub brush. We set up the kitchen in a large opening, and the firepit and chairs in another large opening, then spread out into the maze of smaller openings for our individual camping. I liked ours because it was the most private, at the base of the cliff.

We all went to bed early because it was dark early and felt late. Overnight I woke up to enjoy the brilliant pool of stars framed by rock cliffs and scraggly silhouettes of a few dead, gnarly trees. The crescent moon rose about 3am and diminished the

stars.

Friday Oct 29. (Camp 3: Upper North Canyon, mile 20.8) The plan: up at 6, on the river by 9.  The reality: up at 6:30, on the river by 10:30. Lots of rapids today. The big ones were Badger Rapids and House Rapids. We scouted House and Steve—the captain of our boat and the most experienced—handled them beautifully. The rapid Mike rowed did get me splashed. Another rapid I “rode the ring”—sitting on the bow, holding on to the bow ring—and a wave came over the bow and washed me back in the boat, swimming in a foot of water on the floor of the raft. Needless to say, I got soaked and cold, but it was fun while it lasted. I was able to mostly dry out at our lunch stop.

This is still Marble Canyon. The canyon walls are gorgeous red with blocks and slabs and mini terrace-like layers, with gendarmes on top. Like wandering through a sculpture garden. My favorite looked like a robot goblin. Made camp a little after 5, dark at 6. Warm and sunny all day, but cool in the shadows; lots of shadows.

Food system: There are four cook teams of four. I’m on cook team 3; Mike is on team 1. My team cooked dinner this night at Camp 3, then tomorrow’s breakfast and lunch, which we prepped for people to pack their own. The plan was a long day and no lunch stop. Our dinner was grilled halibut with rice pilaf and green beans. The crowd went wild! I also served the pistachio halva that Mike and I bought at DK market. Many people had never heard of halva, but liked it. I’ve also served our dark chocolate twice—another hit. The experienced teams opted for “quick and easy” dinners, which means hot dogs and sloppy joes.

Saturday Oct 30. (Camp 4: Upper South Canyon). We rowed from Upper North Canyon Camp to Upper South Canyon. It’s called the Roaring 20s because of all the rapids. I count 16 in the book map; 10 of them are named. I was in Dave’s boat; he makes no effort to avoid the steep waves that splash the most so I got wet. That of course is the center of the fast current.

We had a lunch stop near 25mile rapid (?). Lorri led a short hike to see the petroglyphs. She had a hard time finding the trail and so doubled back. Mike—who of course was well ahead—opted to scramble up to where he thought it would be. I followed him. We found a trail, but it didn’t lead to the petroglyphs. We were gone too long and hurried back. Mike was in his Mion sandals and slipped and fell and hurt his wrist. We apologized to all for making them wait, and were sorry to have missed the glyphs.

Sunday October 31. (Camp 5: Upper Nankoweap). We paddled 18 miles: two sets of rapids and a number of riffles. I was in Ross’ boat and did half of the flat water / small riffle rowing. The President Harding Rapid and the 36-Mile Rapid. No lunch stop. We stopped at Redwall Cavern and did a short hike up Nautiloid Canyon to see the Nautiloid fossils. Mike rode in Dave’s boat with Jim and didn’t row, giving his injured wrist a day of rest.

For Halloween night and the first day of Samhain we wore costumes, or half of us did. I was a skeleton, Mike was some sort of alien with an aluminum hat and spacecraft collar. I set up an alter with candles, a jack-o’-lantern orange, and a plate of offerings. Those of us that chose to lit a candle and left a small offering, inviting the spirit of a deceased beloved to join us for the evening. About 8 people participated. Unfortunately, without a votive, all the candles blew out. A few people told stories, then the musicians among us played banjo and bongos. Four of us danced; the usuals: Janet, me, Sandi and Mike. And maybe Dana too.

Monday November 1. (Camp 6: Upper Nankoweap) I am sitting in the partial shade of Cottonwood trees about one mile upstream in Nankoweap Canyon. We are enjoying a much-needed layover day. Slept in ‘til 7:30, had a bacon ‘n eggs ‘n toast breakfast (vegan sausage for the veggies). Hiked up to the granary. Mike scrambled on up the canyon to hook up with Jim. I went back to camp for a quick swim in the river. I intended to read and write in the tent but it was too hot, so I hiked up here.

Tuesday November 2. (Camp 7: Carbon Creek, Mile 65). I went with Lynn and Matt today. Did a little rowing, including a small rapid just before our campsite. Got a late start—10:20—but made camp early—4:30. Short day. We were going to stop for lunch at the Little Colorado River confluence, but Lorri and the lunch boat missed the eddy and couldn’t get back. So we did 15 minutes of sightseeing and rowed further downstream just below the confluence.

Mike and I both hate getting up at 6am. Its not even dawn yet. Dawn is about 6:30. While I don’t want to leave the impression that this Grand trip is anything short of fabulous, and we are lucky to be invited and to be on the river with such an experienced and fun crew, we have been reviewing the factors that make it not quite our type of trip: (1) the amount of gear that requires hours to set up and pack up every day; (2) the size of the team—16—requires more coordination and teamwork, and less autonomy than we are used to; (3) it is less exercise than our hiking trip, and so less in the zen zone.

It gets dark at 6, so we have long evenings around the fire eating, drinking and socializing. On Halloween, most of us wore costumes. Last night we enacted a pirate murder mystery. Lorri brought a huge drybag full of theater costumes for the play. Amazing. I played the governor’s wife, with two marriage-age daughters. Mike played pirate Captain Redbeard. Mike ate mushrooms. I drank alcohol. For me it is a symptom of mild depression, not enjoyment. I miss having quality time alone with Mike. We do love the weather: warm, sunny and dry dry dry every day, and cool enough to sleep well at night.

We are out of Marble Canyon and officially in the Grand Canyon now. We can see the Desert View Watchtower on the South Rim from here.

Wednesday Nov 3. (Camp 8: Upper Rattlesnake, Mile 74.6). Six boatmen ferried the rafts down to Lava Canyon while the other 10 of us hiked up one canyon and down the other. The boatmen hiked up to meet us almost half way. The middle section was through a slot canyon that for me was the highlight of the trip so far. After that we crossed a fault into older rocks, more eroded and crumbly, so the hills were softer but elegantly striped.

We encountered a set of rangers and two other groups today. We are all jockeying for the best campsites. Two groups are ahead of us, and there will be five total exchanging passengers at Phantom Ranch on the 5^th. This not remote, untrammeled wilderness. Totally managed.

I was on the cook team tonight: turkey and cranberry sauce, fried potatoes and broccoli. 

Thursday November 4. (Camp 9: Below Clear Creek, Mile 85). We were on the river at 9am. We ran a bunch of rapids today; the river was fast. The biggest one was Hanse. We scouted it. I was  in Lorri’s boat with Dana: she ran a perfect line. Mike and Sandi were in Steve’s boat: they hit a hole, almost flipped, and both Steve and Sandi fell out in the river, still holding on. Steve managed to climb back in himself; Mike pulled Sandi in.

The first rapid we ran—Neville—we took a big wave over the bow and I went swimming on the floor. Got totally soaked and cold. When we scouted Hanse I was able to climb up into the sun to dry out. But I got wet again later in the day. We were deep in the canyon and got very little sun. Our campsite got no sun. It took me an hour to warm up after putting on dry clothes. We reached camp at 2, ate a late lunch, then hiked the narrow Clear Creek Canyon.

We are all sad that Skip is leaving at Phantom Ranch; Melina is joining us.

Friday November 5. (Camp 10: 91 Mile Creek, Mile 91.8). Lots of excitement today. Cast off by 9; one rapid and a one-hour cruise into Phantom Ranch. Said goodbye to Skip and greeted Melina with enthusiasm. Mailed 3 postcards. Ate lunch—chicken salad wraps. It was hot—too hot for a paddle jacket. Rowed Pipe Springs Rapid and stopped to scout Horn Creek Rapid: it looked nasty. Steve—my boat—navigated it skillfully. Dave and Mike’s boat got stuck in an eddy. They got out on shore and tried to line the boat around the rock, with Matt’s help. Coming out of the eddy the raft flipped and floated downstream. Matt loaded Mike and Dave into his boat while Lorri and Dana and Melina rowed down to catch the raft and tow it to a tiny rock margin at the bottom of a boulder slope. We all convened there and tied up our boats. Dave in his dry suit secured three lines to the frame on the river side of the upside-down raft and all 16 of us pulled to flip the fully loaded boat upright. Then we pushed it into the water and remounted the oars.

The drama was the contentious discussion about how to do it and where to do it. Steve—who is very skilled but usually doesn’t speak up—finally raised his voice to say that Lorri would be in charge of organizing the boat rescue, and we all listen to her. That settled it. Steve has rowed with Lorri many times and has the highest respect for her skills and judgment.

We stopped at the first camp—91 Mile. Nobody had camped here before and were delighted to find that it is a very nice camp. Now we are drying gear. No sun, but the rocks are still warm. Early camp so lots of time for exploring, reading, cooking, drying, organizing and more drying. Early fire.

Saturday Nov 6. (Camp 11: Parkins Inscription, 108.8 Mile) Big rapid day: we rowed 18 miles and 18 rapids, including two scouts: Granite and Crystal. Both were run successfully; no drama. One stretch of rapids are called the gems: Sapphire, Turquoise, Ruby and Serpentine. Sandi and I rode with Steve; Mike rowed with Dave. Grilled ribeye for dinner.

Sunday Nov 7. (Camp 12: Below Blacktail, Mile 121) We rowed 12 miles and 10 rapids with one scout. I rowed with Phil and Joanne. We had several stops. We hiked up Elves Canyon to the falls for a swim, but David was the only one to actually jump in the pool. I tried to bathe in a lower pool, but it was too cold so I just did a small splash in the face, pits and crotch. Late in the day we pulled into Blacktail Canyon to play music. The acoustics were wonderful in the narrow slot canyon, and we were right at the unconformity; several people found it awesome to touch the missing half-billion years. It was a long day and we still had to row across the eddy and main current to make camp at Lower Blacktail on the other side. We had to camp and make dinner in the dark. I was tired, hungry and cranky.

Monday November 8. (Camp 13: Owl Eyes Camp, Mile 135). Another exciting day! We rowed from Below Blacktail to Owl Eyes: 14 river miles with 14 rapids, one scout, and several riffles that qualify as unnamed rapids at low water. I rowed (on Steve’s boat) one riffle and ended up hitting the rock wall. Mike rowed (on Dave’s boat) Tapeats Rapid and hit a rock, which high-sided the boat, catapulted Dave into the water, and broke the oar. The boat slid off the rock and Mike had to scramble to collect and install the spare oar to row to a safe spot. He also got hit in the head by the broken blade. He has a minor wound above his eye, likely developing a big bruise, and we are monitoring for a concussion. (Negative). Dave swam to shore and called to Steve and I as we passed by; we were able to row to shore and pick him up.

Earlier in the day Ross got pulled to the wrong line around the rock and got stuck in an eddy. We all pulled over on the backside of the island. I held the boat in place while Steve ran over to assist Ross. Eventually Ross was able to power his way out of the eddy and we all made it safely down river. Apparently, Phil also got sucked down the wrong side and almost got stuck in the same eddy. And our boat, with Lynn rowing, also high-sided and briefly got stuck on the same rock as Mike and Dave, but having seen them, we were ready to high-side and slide off. Lorri also broke an oar on the same rock. Not an easy day even for pros. 

In camp I saw a large butterfly, yellow and black, most likely the common swallowtail. We’ve seen lots of butterflies, but this was by far the most dramatic.

Tuesday Nov 9. (Camp 14: Keyhole, Mile 140.5). A 3.5-mile run down to Keyhole with four rapids. Lynn was rowing. One time we hit the wall. Another time Steve had to spring to the oars to save us from a deep hole. Just below camp at Owl Eyes we passed the narrowest point in the canyon—76 feet—and entered Granite Narrows. Beautiful walls of pink Zoroaster granite with intrusions of shiny black Vishnu schist.

It is our first overcast day, though the sun is trying to burn through. Stopover at Deer Creek for water and hiking. I skipped the hike up to “The Patio”, up through the Tapeats Sandstone, because my right knee is complaining, so I’m giving it a rest. Deer Creek features a waterfall coming down the red sandstone wall from a slot canyon not more than a foot or two wide.

It was a short day: we made camp at 3:00. I went hiking up the canyon to my own “Patio.” The hike was seductive. I was being very careful with my knee, but after it warmed up it stopped bothering me. The canyon was filled with GIANT boulders that were very hard to scramble. I made a couple sketchy moves that were probably unwise given that I was alone and hadn’t told anyone where I was going. But I could see the sheer walls at the head of the canyon and I really wanted to get there. Then I scrambled up the slope on the left to get to the top of the sheer walls at the head and found a beautiful, broad sandstone “patio” with a view down canyon. Above that was a smaller sheer wall, and above that another smaller patio. I turned around there and traversed the right slope back: it was safer. I’d heard the people yelling for me and I tried hollering back multiple times, but they never heard me. 

Meanwhile, everyone else partied on the raft. I joined them after my hike. Matt was playing banjo and Dave bongos. The music was good. Janet and Melina were dancing on the slippery tube. Dinner and campfire after dark. Moon rise shining on the canyon heights across from us.

Mike’s eye is turning dark red with big bags of skin.

Wednesday Nov 10. (Camp 15: 158.7 Mile). Rowed 14 miles today: the water was fast, the canyon narrow, and 14 rapids. We packed lunch in the morning and stopped at Matkatamiba Canyon for a short, one hour hike up canyon. The ledges and layers were mesmerizing and fun scrambling. The creek was sculpting a slot canyon before our very eyes.

The biggest rapid of the day was Havasu. Five captains scouted it but Steve just ran it—on the left. Three ran left and three ran right. It was a bit of adrenaline for all, but all of us came through it well. I was rowing with Ross and David. Mike was with Dave again. Then I hopped onto Lorri’s boat with Melina and Dana just before Havasu Canyon. Lorri wanted to stop and pulled in, but the water was so low it wasn’t navigable. So we missed seeing the vivid turquoise water and the waterfall and pool that it is known for.

This camp is a series of ledges—very flat and very little sand.

Thursday Nov 11. (Camp 16: Stairway Canyon, mile 171.5). We rowed 12 miles and 9 small rapids in about 4 hours. Made camp before 2. Time to bathe and wash clothes before the shadows reclaimed our beach. Mike and I rowed with Ross. I rowed a couple small rapids and did just fine. The canyon was narrow, the walls were sculptured, and the current was moving well. We saw a loon take off and a ewe on the shore. We’ve seen bighorns most every day. I’m on cook crew tonight.

Friday November 12. (Camp 17: Layover day in Stairway Canyon Camp). I was on cook crew for breakfast and lunch. Work work work. Then Mike and I took off up canyon, clambering over boulders to get up to the head of the canyon. “That’s beautiful.” “Ah, gorgeous.” “Holy shit!” Giant boulders precariously perched on a tripod of small boulders. All different colors of rock. We brought a couple rocks home. The big one is red, white, purple and grey.

My other delight is the clear skies every night. It’s been a new moon, quite dark, lots of stars. Because of the canyon walls, we only get a slice. I’ve been studying the constellations and how they’re rotating counter-clockwise around Polaris—which in most camps we can’t see. Cassiopeia is visible most evenings; the Big Dipper emerges in the early morning.

Today we saw two little frogs!

Saturday November 13^th. (Camp 18: 186.4 Mile Camp). Rowed 15 miles today, including Lava Falls Rapid and 12 other rapids. Lava Falls Rapid is rated as 8—10 in high water—because it has a 13-foot drop. I rowed with Matt and Janet. The boatmen had nervous anticipation and some adrenaline, but it all went smoothly and, though the waves were tall and the splash big, it was not as challenging as advertised. We stopped at Tequila Beach after to celebrate with swigs of tequila and lunch. Above the rapid was Vulcan’s Anvil, a 50-foot lava plug in the middle of the river. Below the rapid was the most amazing geology yet: the most gorgeous patterns of shiny black basalt with columnar jointing, in amazing patterns: fans and swirls and vertical and fingers and legs and the lumpy ends like cut jewels.

Mike and I had a big, short fight in the morning right in front of everyone when we were finishing loading the boats. I don’t know why he was so irritable. Everyone else is mellow and patient and working together. That night in bed I tried to talk to him to find out if there is some underlying stressor, discontent or irritant, but learned nothing.       

Sunday November 14^th. (Camp 19: 202 Mile Camp). 16 miles today and 12 minor rapids.  I rowed with Dave and Sandi and that was entertaining: they knew the words to some songs. I rowed a bunch, including minor rapids, and that went well. Mike was irritable again this morning; I don’t know why. He rowed with Lorri and Dana and had a good time. That seemed to cheer him up. I heard a report that Ross’ boat got stuck on some rocks and it took 3 boats and 8 people to get them off. We were well ahead so never saw it. 

The basalt sculptures on the canyon walls were endlessly beautiful and fascinating. Lunch on a nice sand beach. It was hot and sunny. Took off most of my river clothes and challenged Melina to a wrestling match. I lost the arm wrestling but after several reversals won the “pin” wrestling. It was fun!

Made camp early enough for a swim in the hot sun and cold river. A lot of naked women washing their hair. A few men joined in later. The shadow came early.

Monday Nov 15^th. (Camp 20: Layover day at 202 Mile Camp). I was on cook crew for dinner. Slept late. After breakfast I read in the tent until the sun hit. It was windy and “cold”—very unmotivating. Then I walked up canyon—very short—and explored the basalt cliff next door: very crumbly and unsatisfying. Then a yoga lesson with Melina, a bowl of black bean soup for lunch and a dip in the water to cool off. Mike was hiking by himself up the bluff over the canyon. David found petroglyphs. Too hot to sit in the sun, I retreated to sit in the shade until it was my turn to paddle the ducky kayak. Sandi and Janet were on mushrooms. And Melina and Mike too. I helped Matt build a fire to heat rocks for the sweat lodge that never happened.

I want to mention the mergansers. A flock of seven flew up river the other day and we were floating down. The mergansers were elegant and streamlined with white breasts and brown heads. My fav wildlife sighting of the trip. We have seen Big Horn sheep most every day, including today.

Tuesday November 16^th. (Camp 21: Upper 220 Mile Camp). Rowed 18 miles and 13 rapids. Mostly read and run. The largest was 217 Mile Rapid rated 4, with a 16-foot drop. The water was fast. Weather cool and cloudy in the morning, but warm and sunny in the afternoon. Mike rowed with Ross. I rowed with Lorri and Dana in the morning and with Steve and Lynn in the afternoon.

On the river it was another tour of the sculpture garden, with angular basalt dikes, Tapeats sandstone cathedrals, and a new one: Diamond Creek granite. We stopped at Pumpkin Springs to see the colors and to see the “Birth Canal” –a round hole in the patio rock that leads down to a balcony suitable for jumping in the river. The circular sculptured “medicine cups” in the rocky edge were spectacular. Too bad nobody brought their camera.

We are only 5 miles from takeout tomorrow, and everyone is feeling the end in their own way. The party crowd are partying, and the quiet crowd are quiet. It is a nice big camp, but it lost the sun just before we arrived at 3pm.

My major project for the evening was getting all the extra food out of the boat boxes and spreading it out on a tarp for people to pick through and take home. It was profoundly disgusting to see how much extra and wasted food there was of all kinds: sour cream, cream cheese, all kinds of sandwich cheeses, maple syrup, oatmeal, cold cereal, granola, canned goods, dry soups, snacks of all kinds, Pringles, lemonade powder, juice, lettuce, carrots etc. etc. etc. Some of it was food we might have used if we had known about it, but most of it was just bad planning and waste.

After dinner we did a little talent show and gratitude forum. David was the run-away favorite: he wrapped his black bodysuit, arms, legs and head gear, with colored reflective tape that shown in the black lights held by his assistants. With his bright stripes glowing in the black light, he danced in a Michael Jackson style to a rhythmic sound track. I thanked the boat crew and sang “Wouldn’t It Be Loverly” from My Fair Lady. There were other musical acts too. Then Janet, Lorri, Matt and Mike played toss bocce in the dark with Matt’s lighted bocce balls. 

Wednesday November 17^th. Paddled six miles to the takeout at Diamond Creek, with 7 read-and-run rapids. PRO met us there and provided a bag lunch. De-rigging the boats was another chaotic scene: gear all over the beach. The party crowd stopped working before the boats were rolled and loaded in the truck, so I had to mobilize the teams to rally and finish the job. Matt’s expertise and strength were invaluable. PRO delivered us back to our parked cars at a friend of Dana’s in Flagstaff for the final goodbye.

The entire trip was totally fantastic, from the camaraderie of old and new friends to the physicality of the river and rock.

Melina, Mike, Dana, Ross, Phil, Lynn, Dave, Sandi, Steve, Matt,

David, Janet, Lorri, Jim, Sharman and Joanne